FAQ INDEX

Responses

  1. How do you determin the warp color when using a three color warp?

    • I am not sure I understand what you are asking, Elizabeth. Perhaps you could email me.

  2. Laverne, I did find the answer to my last question- now I am so trying to figure out how you roll the weaving up using second sticks next to the original warp sticks; every time I try to roll the extra warp up on a stick next to the tieup end everything just unrolls and makes a really big mess. Help!!

    • Elizabeth, until I get that FAQ topic answered with photos, the very best way to see this is in my video on WeaveZine’s Youtube channel. Here is the link…. you may have to copy and paste it.

      The part about rolling up the warp starts at around minute 4. I hope this helps.

  3. Laverne, I am having issues with the shed and heddle sticks wanting to flop over whenever I am trying to weave- is there something I am not doing right? Do I not have enough pull on the warp strings?
    I am so glad you pointed me to the video- must not have watched enough of it the first few times; thank you so much.

    • Elizabeth, how do you have the far end of your loom tied up? Do you have it attached to a single point like a door knob or hook? That kind of tie up would definitely cause things to be flopping around annoyingly. Try lashing the entire end bar to something. That is by far the most stable set up.

  4. This is getting to be a real challange; for some reason- have been weaving on the floor loom for way to many years and I am so determied to get this right!

  5. Hi Laverne, I actually have it tie off on the ends of a 12″ stick- both ends- there are only about 14 ends of warp on the loom ends- I am going to try a longer stick on the tie-up end and see how that fairs; for some reason the weft is not beating dow properly- the tie-up end has been slipping- but a longer stick should also help with that problem also. I will let you know who everything progresses. Thank you so much for all your help. Liz

  6. Hello Laverne, Are we going to have a weavealong? Haven’t seen anymore mention of one; or I cannot find the right website for it?! I really need to get a better handle on these things.
    Thank you so much, Elizabeth

    • The weave along is on Ravelry. I will email you with the link.

  7. Hi Laverne,
    I hope these questions are not too dumb ! I am first time weaver 1. how do i calculate how much warp i need for any project? 2. Your videos are great but when you take off the back strap for example prior to braiding….how is that done?
    Many thanks Ken

    • Hi Ken,
      You need to weave samples with the yarn you have chosen for your project. You will lose length in take up and the percentage of length you use will depend on the weight of yarn you are using. For example I lost 30% of length in the backstrap project so I know that for my next project with that same yarn I will need to wind a warp that is at least 30% longer than the desired length of the finished item. There is no getting away from sampling. If you want a project to come put well you need to make a test with the yarn first. This will also tell you the kind of width you can expect to get.

      When you finish weaving the backstrap just pull out the loom bars, remove the heddles and all sticks and you will be left with a woven band with warp ends at either end ending in loops. As for the braiding the ends of the backstrap, just group the unwoven warp ends and braid as you would someone’s hair. Take several warps ends and form three groups. You could make five braids across the width of the piece. Braid as far as you can. You will be left with loops in the ends through which you can pass another braided length of cord and that is what attaches the backstrap to your loom bars.

  8. Hi Laverne,
    Many thanks for taking time out to reply, i appreciate it !
    Ken

  9. Me again – Sorry if you answered this elsewhere, but I would like to know why it is called “pebble weave”. Where does it get this name?

    • I was told by Anne Rowe that the name “pebble weave” was first used by Adele Cahlander and Marjorie Cason in their book on Bolivian weaving. The pebbles are the tiny spots that appear between the floats on the face of the fabric. The words “pebble weave” are often applied to any textile that has a spotty look but the structure to which the words were first applied is the Andean one that I describe in my book.

  10. I am having difficulties with my weft threads showing in spots while doing a two color background pebble weave.

    • Hi Paula,

      The weft often shows just a little particularly along the edge of diagonals. It should just be the faintest “shadow” along the diagonal line. It tends to show more on thicker yarns and will not be noticeable at all when using very fine yarn. If it is showing a lot, you may need to shift your warps so that they are closer together or check that you have not twisted warps or made a mistake when doing the pick-up.

  11. Hello Laverne, I haven’t done any backstrap weaving for years, but hope to get back to it. I plan to make a wedding band for my friends who met on a Quaker study tour in Bolivia. They have four cats and I would like to weave cat motifs into the band along with a short quote from their vows. I wonder if you know of any traditional cat designs I might be able to use? I haven’t tried Andean pebble weave yet, so this will be my first ambitious attempt.
    With many thanks,
    Lucy

    • Hi Lucy,

      I haven’t seen any cat motifs in my travels but there is a feline figure on pre Columbian textiles that I have seen in books. It can be done in pebble weave. It will have to wait until I am back home so I can access the books.

  12. Thank you Laverne.

    I look forward to your findings. Yes any feline motif would probably be fine.

    Lucy

  13. Do you have a tutorial on cutting, sewing, finishing the ends for making cuffs?
    I’m not the same Lucy as above!!!

    • Hi Lucy. No, I am sorry, I have not made a tutorial for that part of the process. The thing is that I make my cuffs with very fine materials, like 60/2 silk and that makes the finishing relatively easy. The fabric is so fine that I can easily fold over the ends twice and hem them without creating excessive bulk. If you were working in heavier thread, hems like that would make the whole thing quite clumsy, I think. A friend of mine recently wove a cuff using 10/2 cotton and I think that she could hem those ends nicely. You might want to put some Fray Check or similar product along the end of the band before cutting the unwoven warp ends. I have found that the Fray Check stiffens the fabric and therefore gives a nice crisp fold when you turn the fabric to hem. Be careful, though, as the Fray Check can sometimes leave a watermark.


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