It all starts with a warping board. Above…a homemade one.
Sometimes you need to improvise.
Finding something FIRM around which to wind your warp is essential. If you think that you will be doing a a lot of weaving it is well worth investing in a warping board or building one yourself. If you are using dowels embedded in a plank, make sure they are firmly embedded and cannot move at all. Leaning warping stakes will seriously affect your warp.
“L” brackets screwed into wood work well using one arm of the “L” as the stake.
The warping pegs that come with rigid heddle looms are another good option. Clamp two to a table.
An inkle loom can be used as a warping board using two pegs.
The basic moves:

1.Start by tying the yarn in a large loop around stake A. Place the ball of yarn in a bowl or other container so it won't roll around. Pull the yarn off the ball and lead it to and around stake B. 2.When returning to stake A, the yarn needs to cross itself. You are moving in a figure-of-eight path. 3. When changing colors cut and tie on new yarns to each other at stake A. Finish by cutting and tying off the yarn around stake A in a large loop.
Concentrate on keeping the tension as even as possible. Try not to stop or pause in the middle of warping. Remember that this warp will go directly onto your loom. A well-wound evenly-tensioned warp will get you started on the right foot with your weaving.
I show basic warping in the following video:
Four stake warping which allows you to quickly and efficiently separate out two colors into two sheds on the warping board can be seen in this video:
This blog post has a lot of information about warping.




















Hi Laverne,
I had a warping board made with 4 stakes like in your video and have wound a warp like you show. I just wondered what to do with the extra crosses between the middle stakes and the outside one? I would very much appreciate any help you can offer on this.
Anita
By: Anita Lee on January 19, 2011
at 7:00 pm
Anita, if you are wanting to create a third selvedge, that is, have your warps on a needle that is lashed to your loom bar, just ignore that extra cross and replace the warping stake with the needle. When your warp is on the loom, and you have made your string heddles and put in your shed rod you will see that that cross will not interfere with anything. Open your heddle shed down to the start and straighten out any overlapping warps on your needle. If you wound your warp with your thumb between the two threads, there won’t be any major twisting. You won’t have a absolutely perfect start but the imperfections are less noticeable the finer the yarn and the finer the needle.
If you are staring with a fringe then that extra cross will get “swallowed” in the fringe. In either case, the extra cross there will have no effect whatsoever on teh weaving.
By: lavernewaddington on January 19, 2011
at 7:45 pm
hello Laverne its Dwayne sanchez
i wrote you a few months ago how could i make a continuous warp for a back strap loom i got a loom from Ju nie you went to NC to learn from her before she warped my loom i was just woundering if you new how or do you have a video. continuous warp in nice because u can make a nice lenght but if you do not have a long room to weave in your work does not have to be really long. but you and get a good lenght with continuous warp can you help me understand how to please or if you know of a book ext……please e-mail me at
weavingsanchez@yahoo.com
By: Dwayne Sanchez on October 22, 2011
at 10:35 am
Hi Dwayne,
Emailing you a picture.
By: lavernewaddington on October 23, 2011
at 2:15 am